Tuesday, April 04, 2006 

Narriman Point

Narriman point is right across from the Gateway, but there are no straight roads that go there, and about three rotarys just to confuse you. It's the edge of the cresent shaped bay. You have to see the sunset from there.
Sunsets last longer over herebecause we're nearer to the equator ( or that's my pseudo science explanation for something that may be totally in my head). This is great, go over there and watch the sunset..try to get the beggars to stop bothering you for 15 minutes to enjoy it.
That's Malabar point on the right.


After the sun goes down, The ring of lights around the bayis what the tourbooks call 'The queens necklace', but none of the localsuse that term.In short you can see all of downtown Mumbai around Marine pointlight up in a cresent. The camera does'nt have an angel wide enough to get all this in. Essentially that line of lights keeps going out to the left, across the whole bay.



Then you can look out to your left and see the pitch black nothingnessof the Indian Ocean. It's fantastic.



That time I supped in Bombay
Before I left my boss sent an email.

Next time you see Pat, he'll be a seasoned world traveler, smoking cigarettes from pretentious cigarette holders, telling stories supping in Calcutta.

Dude , I am never supping in Calcutta, that place is a mess. Let's talk about Mumbai.
So how's the food in Mumbai?
The Chinese is excellent. I reccomend India Jones in the Oberoi hotel, that's some 5* chinese at greek diner prices.

What....You went to Mumbai and got Chinese?
Yes, dude I've been eating Indian food every day, that's all that's in Pune.
It's not like NY...'oh I think I'll have italian tonight' or 'maybe that new sushi place'.

It's a never ending supply of channa and dall, each day, every day.
For my geek friends that's:


while (daysLeftInIndia >0)
{
try
{
drink(water);
eat(vegetable);
eat(roti);
if(day == mon day== wens day== fri)
eat(channa);
else
eat(daal);
}
catch (BadFoodException bfe)
{
takeCipro(now);
thread.wait (12hours);
}
finally
{
daysLeftInIndia --;
}

}

Programmers: Note it's all in the try block, you don't want any unhandled excpetions.
Non Programmers: You just learned the sematics of a try/catch block.

Plus the Chinese cooks don't have this hangup about using meat.

The seafood in Mumbai is excellent at well.

Wanna be down
Oh and here's another fun part for me being in Mumbai.
All the wait staff are indian dudes trying to act like British butlers as much as possible.

I'm the white guy trying to act as inidan as possible.

Greet them with "ap kaisei hei" ( how are you) , order some curry and roti , eat with your hands ask for the onions and lime wedges. They will love you....
"bholie hindi?"
>>"bholie mi hindi itni ati" ( a very little)
>>" mein Poona ek mahina raha hoon" ( me pune one month being...)

My syntax is probably wrong and my accent is probably awful.
I did this at lunch one day ( becaus this is actually close to what I have for lunch most days)., They ask questions...tell you how to get around, where to find a bar...it's great.
Yeaaaah....I'm cool.

Then I got carried away.
At the Thai Pavilion at the Taj President I carried the impress the waiter thing too far.
"How spicy sir, mild or medium?"
>>"Oh I've been in india for a month...do it a touch more than medium"

Oh dear god, what a mistake....a little translation of the spice levels in India

  • mild = I'd like something spicy
  • medium = Do you have anything that will burn my tounge?
  • spicy = Do you have anything painful, and mildly narcotic?


I think I literally got high off the chilis in that penang. Sweating, shortness of breath, time distortion...all the not so fun parts. I had to lay down and drink lassis aftet that.

DaysLeftInIndia --;

Sunday, April 02, 2006 

Gateway, Drugs

So This is the Gateway to India. A collassal momument built for queen Victoria, other than that I know nothing about it.


It faces the bay inbetween Mumbai's peninsula and the rest of India. It's really nice.
The other landmark is the collasasl Taj hotel next to it (you can see the dome of the taj is one of the more recognizeable features on the horizion).


If you go to the Taj I'm sure you will be treated well (because the prices are through the roof)If you stand outside and try to take pictures of the gate , you will not be given a moments peace.
On top of the normal beggars, there are other people trying to give you stuff you don't want. And they're selling it like those guys in Glengarry-Glen Ross ( which is a really good flick).


"You sir...very smart"

"You can come back later, look now buy later"

"You not like? Then not for you....for family"

my favorite

"Sir, this is my dinner" ( please buy something out of pity I'm poor, take a balloon 20 rupees...please)

Some of them almost whine if you don't want to buy something.

Like you're not playing fair...I have crap , you're the foriegner....why won't you give me money?
They just won't stop.

More gate:

While you're trying to take your pictures, here is some of the panorama of people who will try to get your attention at the gate.

  1. Little poverty stricken girls presenting you with flower bracelets as 'presents', they're not presents they want your money
  2. Numerous 'tour guides', this includes anyone with a car and a sales pitch...they want your money,( or if you pass on the tour, they'll offer to drive you somewhere to score drugs...great idea!)
  3. Wierdo praying guys....They're in robes, constantly offer you candies ( oooohhh....candy from strangers!), and try to tie some yarn around your wrist and/or give you a bindi....I have no idea what this is about, you litterally have to shoo them away.Somewhere in this convoluted system, they probably also want your money
  4. The peddlars of vice ...probably the most honest guys out here.

The guys in the last category get their own little story. They sell illegal stuff with the energy of a carnival barker, and the lines are classic. See, back home there's alot of whispering, code words, signals..etc ( go watch HBO's The Wire, excellent realism).

These guys on the other hand are just one step shy of holding up a sign that says "DRUGS!"

It's not unusual to have them come right up to you and start telling you.
"Only the best drugs I am having!"

"good joints baba, I got good joints"

"cocaine,opium..what you want baba? acid?"


Acid? I almost fell down laughing. Yeah... The tap water is undrikable,the streets are a kalidscope of dirt and traffic accidents waiting to happen... beggars won't stop poking at me with their stumps, yeah some LSD would liven this up....are you out of your goddamn mind?


Most just come up and start talking to you, THEN THEY DON'T STOP.


At least a few won't hesitate to scream

"HASH, BABA WANT SOME HASH?"

dude their is a cop not 20 feet away, you're an idiot. (Of course the cop might just be paid off)>>nahi

"GIRLS?"

>>nahi

"(pause)...BOYS?"

>>"NAHI"

But they're just as ready to shift gears , these guys are all about making a buck. Can't sell you drugs....how about rugs, or suits, small toys, cell phones, statues....what you want baba? I don't know if this happens to everyone or if I'm just in the right demographic.
On top of all the other reasons not to do drugs, just do a little research on the drug laws here...there are not fines, you go to jail. Right to a fair and speedy trial...nonexistent.

 

Mumbai

Mumbai is a big city. And I'm not talking about the population. From the north end of the city to Colaba in the south it's about 20 miles. So it takes 2 hours to drivefrom Pune to Mumbai and then another 2 to get to Colaba.
The traffic in Mumbai is nightmarish, just bumper to bumper ( the rickshaws are'nt alloweddowntown because they would just make things worse). India has this invention to gettraffic moving, it's called a 'flyover', what it is - express lanes built on elevated roadsabove regular streets. These only last 4-5 blocks in Mumbai, so if there's no traffic it'sa bit like a roller coaster.
My fist though on entering Mumbai was: This looks like the bronx. But really it looks like...well ...Mumbai. Like Pune floded over on itself 4 times. There are some nicer old british buildings downtown, but modern Indian architecture can only be described as being designed by someone who watched too much MTV in the 80's. It's gaudy and bright with wierd shapes all over the place. Inverted trapazoids, sharp triangles all in concrete, and in yellows , pinks, and blues.

Colaba is the touristy part of town, and probably the best place to stay if you have no idea where anything is. If you're loaded you can go to the Taj ( like the Waldorf off central park) , if not there are plenty of other western style hotels down there.




Now there are some ways to get around india cheap, but I figured I was saving enough on food/transportationand everthing else so I spent money for a real hotel. Plus a real western style hotel has everything I'm used to. Hot showers and wetern breakfast.

Oh god, how I've missed breakfast..not thatI do it often back home, but on a Sunday morning it's nice to grab some. Breakfast here has consisted of:
  • idli ( kind of farina like rice cakes)
  • Utappa(a rice pancake with onions and potatoes)
  • toast and jam
  • tea

At the hotel I could have pancakes and maple syrup! And bacon!

I had pancakes and bacon, and ham , and bacon, and real coffee, and bacon. Oh... you don't understand.
Mumbai is alot like New York, but hotter. Things are open at 10 at night. There are real stores. There are good restaurants. Aside from not knowing any of the geography , I felt totally at home there.